Day 6 – 11ish miles

It actually got cool overnight and for the first time this whole trip I actually used the blanket! After a quick brekkie and picking up our packed lunches for the day, we headed out onto the literal road. The path meandered by a busy road way. There were occasional hedges to dampen the noise but it was mostly sudden engine noises rushing by at startling speeds.

I put on some Beethoven to feel fancy and distract from my already hurting feet. We pulled up into Heddon-on-the-wall as the playlist hit Ode To Joy and appropriately enough it was lunch time. A joy. We ended up stopping at a Shell station for cold bevvies and ate in a cute park blessed with shade. I took off my shoes and stretched in the grass. Tanya was enamored with her space gummies and we spent the time discussing the various merits of different candies.

We eventually made our way back to the path with wondered through a small suburb before heading down toward the Tyne River. The road ran in a tiered fashion so we had constant views of the houses’ back yards or steep front yards. One such house had a beautiful garden that we stopped to admire. The owner came out to greet us and we were invited to a tour. After discussing bramble management and vinegar, we continued on.

The road eventually curved around into a small forested area. Along one side was a high stone wall and then a sign that said “Biology Experiment”. Tanya and I spent a good 30 minutes speculating on what was going on behind that wall. Mutants? Dinosaurs? Dead bodies? I wanted to believe it was dinosaurs, but there was a distinct lack of dinosaur sounds.

Towards late afternoon, we made it the River Tyne which would be our final companion into Newcastle. The path was all concrete but there was nice patches of grass I was diverting through to help cushion the feet. More and more people were on the path and it was mixed use so the occasional bike drifted through as well. I looked behind me to cross over to some grass, didn’t see anyone and then made my move. One footstep out and a speeding bicyclist came zooming by nearly running me down. As this high class example of a human being passed, he called me a “FOOKING IDIOT”. I snapped back “Oh that’s real nice”. (I’ll admit it wasn’t my best comeback and was in fact the very thing that would haunt me the rest of the day until I came up with a better response.) There was an older lady that was sitting off in the grass and started sing-song crooning to her dog “thaaaaats reeeeaaaal niiiiiice”. It took me quite awhile to even process what the hell was going on. Tanya trudged on.

We made it to our next stop (after much whining from me): The Hedgefield House. It was hit or miss on finding the entrance and once inside who to talk to. But we persevered and after a quick shower (yes! I’m never not excited about this!) made it over to a fancy British Italian restaurant. I say British, because despite the attempt at Italian flavor, there was still somehow none. Salt is your friend here.

Day 7- 10 miles

We got a car back to the trail. Our accommodations were about 2 miles off the path, so to save the old tootsies we decided to do the easier thing. Once back on, it was all paved pathway, all the time. And nary a public toilet in sight, which was unfortunate for my tiny bladder. The path snaked along the river with occasional coverage of houses or hedges. Near the outskirts of Newcastle proper, the path meets the river and stays there. Open sun, no toilets. I was feeling some kind of way by the time we reached a suitable place to stop – an Italian cafe (run by actual Italians, who apparently did not like debit cards judging by the many many signs extolling the virtues of cash). We stopped and had a coffee and I made use of the facilities.

Sun. Heat. Lots of people. Little did we know that the day we were walking into Newcastle coincides with the Great Northern Run, with the finish line right in our path. More and more people and then suddenly it was festival levels amount of humanity. I was trying to keep my cool by paying more attention to all the bridges. I should have taken a note from this guy (possibly a monk?) who was moving along deliberately and doing prostrations. He appeared completely unbothered. There were a lot of puzzled faces.

The end of the race was near the Millennium Bridge, so once we got past that, the crowds mostly died out. We stopped at a place called the Hub for lunch, which also appeared to be a bike shop. After lunch we were back on the path next the river, but now it was decidedly quieter…and dirtier. It didn’t seem like this part the river walk was used much. There was broken glass and weeds everywhere, but hey, no people!

Eventually the trail moved inland and through some housing areas. And then there is was: Segundum, the end. There was a nice plaque to take a picture by. It was so so so hot though. We quickly took our requisite pictures and then moved inside the visitors center for our last stamp. Once again, ending a trail if often very anti-climactic. I just wanted A/C and a shower. The romans built a very nice wall that mostly stood the test of time. Yay.

Tanya called us a taxi to our hotel in Newcastle. This hotel was a little more modern and had individual room thermostats for A/C, so we cranked that sucker down to 19 C at full blast. It was heaven. We showered and then went out to try to find somewhere to eat. It was sizable city, easy enough right? WRONG! Though I did hear enough younger Newcastle patois to last me a lifetime. The kids are loud. We ended up back at the hotel’s restaurant and I had fish n’ chips.

Day 8 and so forth

Sleeping in the frigid A/C is a real treat. Tanya said she was awoken by all the Newcastle partiers but I slept through it all. Out in the street was the detritus of last night festivities: various drink containers, bits of paper, and a lone chunky heel. We got on the train down to London and then eventually connected to another train to Hastings. As an avid driver, I must say the train system seems a whole lot better than 8 lane highways. It was so relaxing to just sit back and not worry about driving somewhere. We basically travelled the whole length of England.

Hastings is a cute little seaside town with wobbly buildings and a still active fishing industry. I didn’t find a 90 degree angle anywhere. The beach is made of pebbles and the water is frigid. We walked around a bit, Tanya did her grocery shopping, and then we had dinner at her local pub. After a day of bothering Tanya at her home, I hopped on the train and made my way to Gatwick. The journey back home was much less stressful: the planes were just their usual lateness and I had a whole row to myself.

Overall, despite the outliers of the sun and heat, the trip was a success! I had fun, I saw stuff and didn’t majorly injure myself. I just wish it could have been longer…and that I brought my sunglasses.